Back to Brixham

Today I hope you enjoy the second episode of my trip around the Devon fishing town of Brixham. It was a 'must stop' on my trip home to England last Autumn.

The harbourside buildings reflected in 'Jenny's' seafood case.

Looking across busy Brixham harbour, just visible is the full size replica of the Golden Hind Elizabethan sailing ship (left in the photo below). The original ship took Devon born sailor and adventurer, Sir Francis Drake, around the world between 1577 and 1580. He was the first British seaman to circumnavigate the globe.

While browsing around the harbour, one comes upon this statue. Prince William of Orange from Holland landed in Brixham in 1688 during the Bloodless Revolution and claimed the throne of England as William III.

Leaving the harbourside where tourist pubs such as the Sprat & Mackerel are plentiful, small alleys lead into the town and here one finds quaint local pubs with typical British names such as The Hole In The Wall.

On laundry day pegging the washing out to dry between the stone buildings adds a somewhat medieval note......................
...............and the local fish don't have far to travel from the fish market, where the daily catch is unloaded, to the restaurant's deep fryer!


More delectable offerings from 'Jenny's tiny stall.

Radiating a warmth of its own, Brixham nestles in the rugged cliffs at the southern end of the English Riviera. Here, life in Brixham centres around its pretty harbor, where you will absorb the many flavours of the town, and in the bustle of one of Britain's busiest fishing ports.

...............from The English Riviera Holiday Planner 2008...................

As he took in the view of Tor Bay whilst imprisoned aboard the ship Bellerophon, Napoleon is reported to have said........

"What a beautiful country".........he was so right!

Across the Bay

Sadly, three friends lost their fathers within the past week and although my own dad passed away in 1976, it started me thinking about him and how much I always enjoy visiting his hometown when I'm on a trip home. After 'crossing the pond' and getting settled in my hometown, Torquay, a trip across Tor Bay to the busy fishing port of Brixham where my dad grew up is always on the agenda.

This map below shows Tor Bay on the south coast of the county of Devon - the open water beyond is the English Channel looking directly toward France. When you look out from the shore you'll think you're on the Mediterranean. Sparkling blue waters warmed by the Gulf Stream, palm trees and a mild climate year round, grace a magnificent coastline.

Best way on a sunny day is to take the ferry across the bay. This is a 30 minute windy ride with scenic views of seaside communities, coves and beaches, with farmland rolling down to the red sandstone cliff edges. Below is Torquay harbour looking back toward the town's seven hills populated mostly by hotels.

Once out on the open water you will see people enjoying the Bay in yachts - sailing conditions are ideal for much of the year and many international and championship races are held here. These pictures were all taken in October of last year - a brisk wind and choppy sea, quite exhilarating.

Arriving in Brixham Harbour, small hotels, B & B's, and the homes of local fishermen climb up the hillsides.


In their prime, Brixham's fleet of fishing trawlers were admired throughout Europe. The skills of trawling were perfected at Brixham. Today some of the original impressive heritage sailing vessels have been restored and can be seen out on the Bay or moored alongside in the harbour. During WWII many trawlers were requisitioned for the evacuation of the British Forces from France, and in 1944 the harbour was used by the US Army for embarking prior to the invasion of Normandy.

Nobody visits Brixham without trying the local seafood offerings. Right on the harbour are a number of stalls selling fresh seafood such as whelks, mussels, cockles, prawns and crabs. We asked our ferry captain where we could get the best fresh crab sandwich and he steered us to 'Jenny's'......................it was certainly a great choice. Sitting at outside tables on the harbour edge, the friendly Jenny herself was feeding us in no time, serving her mouthwatering fare on pretty blue patterned china, no Styrofoam plates here - a woman after my own heart!

The whole grain bread held the freshest, sweetest crab ever, and the garnish of cucumber and fresh steamed prawns made for waterside dining at its best.

Crab pots and the bow of an old fishing boat.

Hope you enjoyed joining me on this Devonshire trip. Next post, before leaving this quaint town, I'll treat you to a few more historic facts and views around Brixham.

The Balcony

Sunrise over water takes one's breathe away. Colors change by the second. Chattering birds awake and fly from their roosting sites. Fishing boats are seen as specks on the horizon. A little van pulls up and morning papers are delivered to the hotel next door. The the early kitchen help arrives and that friendly clattering of breakfast dishes is heard from the hotel kitchen.

On several mornings I flew out of bed and rushed to the windows to watch this spectacular sunrise over the bay as the crescent awoke.

The sun lights the window frames and calls us to breakfast at the tiny balcony table. The elegant crescent starts a new day - the bustling hotel in the center section, private homes and holiday apartments anchoring each end.

Step inside the front door for a glimpse of our holiday home - the perfect apartment overlooking the steel blue Autumn sea. An exquisite chandelier illuminates the bedroom crown moldings. The dining area in front of one of three floor to ceiling windows complete with original wood interior shutters ~ the little balcony beyond.

The manicured gardens, tennis courts and pool above the beach looking toward Thatcher Rock.

At high tide the surf crashes against the sea wall. In Summer this beach is a favorite with swimmers as the water is so clean - and we actually met a woman who swam each morning while we were there, brrr!


This was our second stay at The Balcony Apartment. We hope to return again for more days of elegant living 'across the pond'.

Cousins................together

Do you have a special cousin? Luckily I do and her name is Sue. In this fabulous photo (circa 1915) is our Grandmother with her children. Sue's Mother is second from the left and the eldest, mine is on the right. The boy on the left is my Mother's twin, and the two girls in Grandmother's arms are their twin sisters.

Our Mothers were close, went away to boarding school together, learned dressmaking and worked together before they married. Sue was born nine months before me and this photo was taken in 1944 when our Mums walked us along the seafront in my home town, Torquay. Sue is obviously practicing toddling while I'm chubby and crying because I'm stuck in the pram - or perhaps just embarrassed by Mum's pillbox hat! Fast forward to two weeks ago......................now in our sixties (where did all those years go?) kissin' cousins became lickin' cousins. We giggled over this English version of Dairy Queen with a Cadbury's chocolate flake candy bar stuck in. Amazing what grown women will do at the seaside...............especially cousins.

We then stopped by the house in the center of Teignmouth where Sue grew up.......this was the door we passed through constantly when we were children. My Uncle's real estate business was located on the ground floor, and my dear Auntie's dressmaking workroom was upstairs - I loved watching her sew beautiful clothes. Both Sue and I became handy with a needle and thread thanks to our Mothers' sewing skills, and their patience instructing us in needle arts.

We had so much fun in this house during Summer holidays - the back looked out to a row of posh hotels where we watched the Italian waiters and the dish washers in the kitchens from our bedroom window! The beach and amusement pier were around the corner.
Sue has lived here all her adult life......the prettiest cottage which was once the carriage house to a large estate home.

The entrance gates open into a beautiful courtyard and an upper garden by the red stone wall and.................................................. ....................you can see how Sue and her DH Johan (the most delightful Dutch man) have made it such a beautiful place to relax.

Cousins.......coffee........a sunny October day in Devon..........perfect! Sue, I hope you read this and know how much I love you. I am so grateful to have had you all these years as my very special cousin.

Visiting a Childhood Place

A little history about Teignmouth, the Devon seaside town just 15 minutes from my hometown. The coast ride along the cliffs, overlooking the English Channel, was always exciting to a young girl put on a bus and sent to spend a few wonderful weeks each Summer with her only girl cousin, Sue. I had such fun there and enjoyed reliving the memories with her during this recent visit.

In the local guide, the simplicity of the natural beauty of the area is stated thus.........Who could fail to appreciate this place where so many contrasting aspects combine to please the eye.....warm rosy sandstone cliffs and verdant meadows.....gentle promenade and towering Ness (French 'nez').....river and sea in glorious union never still, ever lively.

Below is an aerial view of Teignmouth, the River Teign Estuary, and the tiny town of Shaldon across the river. The original pier was much longer, built in the 1860's. In its heyday of Victorian and Edwardian times, there were band concerts, magic lantern shows, steamer trips and dances. Unfortunately the seaward end including the ballroom was removed in the 1960's when it was found to be unsafe. Sue and I spent a lot of time on this pier as children/teenagers.

A small ferry has crossed the Teign ever since the 13th Century. The black and white design on the gunwales is a continuing tradition stretching back to Elizabeth I who bestowed royal patronage on West Teignmouth. The design emulates the galleons of that time.

We stayed here at the Bay Hotel in a seaview room for three nights to be close to where my cousin and her family live. This terrace of Victorian homes was constructed by the Earl of Devon in the 1860's. During World War II, three of the houses were bombed but the rebuilding matches the original style perfectly, thank goodness..

The rooms were beautiful, especially the ceilings, mirrors, and elegant lighting. At the hotel, American husband went all out and ordered 'the full English' each morning for breakfast - I told him that eating like that would never get him a role in 'The Full Monty' that's for sure!!

Next time I'll show you more about my cousin's seaside town..............and the wild things 'kissin' cousins' can get up to!