South Devon Coast Path

Come walk with me on a perfect English Spring day.

What better way to spend an afternoon..................a leisurely walk along part of the South Devon Coast Path. This more than 150 kilometre walk (the total distance) takes the traveler up and down towering cliffs, around remote bays, six ferry crossings across estuaries, through popular holiday resorts, past ruins of long-disused structures, with glimpses of wildlife and unusual coastal shrubbery. The abundance of wildflowers include the rare white rock-rose, restharrow, valerian, Autumn squill, Autumn lady's tresses and the scarce ivy bloomrape.

Taking the gate from where we were staying, we only had to cross the beach road, turn right and start the ascent up through the lower cliffs to reach part of the official pathway named Rock End Walk. I often walked here when a teen, sometimes with giggly girlfriends, and later with a boyfriend on Sunday afternoons in those long ago, good old days, before teens were speeding around in cars.

At the top of the climb the views are spectacular across Torbay, then toward the English Channel and France.

Below, the favorite fishing spot of Daddyhole Cove.

This headland is named Daddyhole Plain, taking its name from a cave in the cliff - home of a 'Daddy' or demon.

A popular place to walk dogs, we were entertained by several, all well behaved and friendly, such as these sisters who enjoyed romping through the daisies.

Seats are placed conveniently at intervals along the way, some obviously more popular than others!

This bench below was my favorite as it came with a bouquet of wildflowers.

Leaving the open headland, the narrow path edges the cliff and is smooth and flat with a few steps carved into the steeper parts. A gentle stroll passes by high walls and pretty gates which lead to large homes. Their beautiful views across the water look toward the seaside town of Paignton, and on to the far end of the bay and the fishing town of Brixham.

I would love a view like this!
The path passes through the lower level of this home's "folly" built at the bottom of their garden.
The magnificent South Devon Coast Path which takes you through miles of coastal scenery comes with a word of warning to those less than agile - parts of it are narrow and rugged and the going is hard. Elsewhere the walking is easy and gentle, such as this section around my home town. There are stretches of this path where it is possible to walk for an hour without seeing anyone. During our afternoon stroll we encountered just one other couple - 'on holiday' from Northern England and doing the complete long distance walk over a week or longer. These charming people were obviously in their seventies, kitted out in proper walking gear and with plenty of hiking experience. They were enjoying their day in the fresh air despite the gentleman's comment that he needed new knees and had quite a lot of pain. Now that's a message to the youth of today..........get out of the house, away from your electronic toys............go enjoy Nature while you can.

I'm already planning my next walk along the coastal path. It will be a priority on my 'to do' list for my next trip home across the pond. I will take a left when starting my next walk, heading East where I know there are amazing views in that direction also. So here's to future sunny afternoons in Devon........and healthy knees!

Dartington - Part II

There is so much beauty around the Dartington estate. Unfortunately, one quick visit doesn't allow one to see everything. Around each bend in the many garden paths, each corner of the imposing medieval buildings, there are delightful surprises waiting to enthral the senses.

Known as a year round national center of excellence in arts, music, performance and cinema in Britain, Dartington International Summer School is also world famous.


Entering the Great Hall.

Courtyard apartments adjoining the Great Hall.

Jacobs Pillow..........Peter Randall Page.

A pleasing blend of ancient and modern garden art.

Swan Fountain....Willi Soukop

Bluebell-lined pathways to secret places.
My unexpected visit to Dartington's gardens was perfectly timed. No crowds, pleasant weather, silence except for birdsong, Spring blooms in full color, even empty litter containers. Perfection in an English garden.

Wendy, of the beautiful Merlewood House, in Torquay, took me on this wonderful garden tour. See my sidebar for information on accommodation at Wendy's delightful B&B ~ a great place to stay in Devon.

Dartington Hall & Gardens - Part I

"What is life if not for experiment and new creation".......Leonard Elmhirst.

When social reformer Leonard Elmhirst, a Bloomsbury group member, and his wealthy American wife Dorothy discovered the neglected medieval manor of Dartington Hall, Devon, in 1925, they purchased it. Together they transformed an ailing rural economy through their conviction that art, education, research and work could be integrated into an abundant life for all.

Their experimental vision continues today. The Dartington College of Arts specializes in post-dramatic theatre, music, performance writing and visual performance, with students from around the world. The college, founded in 1961, having evolved as part of the original experiment in rural regeneration, unfortunately will be moved to Cornwall within the next year, merging with University College Falmouth due t0 funding problems.

Besides the beautiful medieval buildings, including the Great Hall, there are exquisite gardens developed under the personal supervision of Dorothy Elmhirst, with the help in the early days of garden designers Avray Tipping, Beatrix Farrand and Percy Cane. They continue to evolve today.

The Terraces.

It was a pleasure to be taken to visit the estate and gardens while home ~ a surprise outing thanks to the lovely lady who owned the B&B where we stayed for our last few days in Devon. We were amazed to learn that these beautiful gardens are maintained by a staff of three ~ wish I could borrow them for a short while to work some magic in my tiny garden!




The Terraces and the Sunny Border beyond the Great Hall.

Notice the sweet English robin on the arm of the Lutyens style bench.

The Spring Walk takes you through azaleas, rhododendrons, Japanese Maples and a very interesting bog garden complete with the appropriately named skunk cabbage (pugh!) and ducks.

Huge, knarled ancient oak and chestnut trees.

The sculpture, Memorial Figure, is by Henry Moore. Several other modern sculptures are placed in special nooks around the gardens. In the background are twelve Irish Yews called

The Twelve Apostles.

Next time, a few more peeks around the Dartington estate.

My Favorite Friendly Place

You just know where my feet took me not long after I returned from England.........back to see my dear friends at SuzAnna's Antiques of course.

With Spring in full swing, the outdoor area was overflowing with everything necessary for the garden, porch, patio, deck etc. Several vintage shoppers are realizing the fun of hanging, or standing, old mirrors outside. For several years I've enjoyed one on my front porch and a couple more scattered about the garden....always something interesting to reflect upon.

Inside the shop the usual plethora of pretties begged to be given a home...loved this lamp with toile shades. Pretty bronze fairy on a pedestal.



Charming cherub planter and vintage silver bowl.

Silvered candle holder......this I could see with white tapers on the night porch, lighting the area just enough while sitting quietly, watching the dancing fireflies as they hover over the cooling grass.................a much-enjoyed Summer evening pastime.

Oh my..............another suitcase, just when I've unpacked mine and am trying not to think about having to start again come July. Two upcoming trips planned......New England (DH's turn to go home) and then the West. This one would probably not hold up well on today's baggage carousels.........but would be pretty to store things at home.

The skinny on Devonshire Cream

Rose Cottage, Cockington Village, Torquay

....................first of all let me tell you, if you overindulge in this Devon delicacy you will not be skinny!! However, the delicacies of life need to be savoured, in small quantities.

Several readers would like to know more about this type of cream, a thick, golden-crusted, spreadable, delectable topping. Most Westcountry natives are addicted to clotted cream and enjoy expounding the merits of what is considered the regional dish of Devon. There is Cornish cream too - I'll leave that story for a Cornish friend!

Real clotted cream is made solely in the Westcountry where the mild climate, rich rolling pastures, and right breed of dairy cattle, create milk with a very high cream content. The rich cream is allowed to rise to the top of the milk, skimmed off into shallow pans, then 'scalded' over simmering water until it thickens and develops a deep gold crust. The cream is similar to soft butter and is of course its best when served on nothing more than the perfect scone. Don't be coerced into purchasing those little sealed jars of so-called Devon Clotted Cream in the import section of a US grocery store. This is nothing like the real thing, which never has additives or preservatives, and can only be truly enjoyed in Devon.

So pack a suitcase and plan that trip across the pond soon!

OK. You did it....packed that bag and bought that ticket, best investment you ever made!

As you drive Devon's countryside, along the narrow lanes and through the villages of thatched cottages, you will see the sign...............Devon Cream Teas. It's sometimes hit or miss and you may not get the perfect one every time, however if it's a farm, a little outdoor tearoom next to a rose covered cottage home, or a commercial venture such as country hotel or restaurant, you will enjoy your afternoon tea I'm certain. Perhaps even more important than the cream is the scone. Usually you are offered a choice, plain or fruit - always make sure they're freshly baked and served barely warm - so the cream doesn't slide off. The jam should be strawberry, thick with fruit, and home-made is always best.

Your tea should be served in a proper teapot. A good afternoon blend with some Assam will provide the strength to compliment a cream tea and wash down all that sugar - therefore you don't need to add sugar to the tea. Milk is optional. The British usually add a little milk, never cream, to their cup of tea. Oh yes, afternoon tea should always be served in a pretty china cup with saucer, no mugs please!

4:00 PM. It's teatime.

Your tea arrives, someone plays 'mother' and pours you a cuppa. You split your scone in two horizontally, spread each cut side with about half an inch of clotted cream, then add a teaspoon of strawberry jam. The first bite is wonderful, you are hooked. You suddenly understand what teatime is all about and you are happy to be in beautiful Devon enjoying, among many other delights, a perfect Devon Cream Tea.