La Madone in Provence

Camera clicking frantically. Did I look frazzled? Was I excited?

Had I, at long last, discovered where my passion for design and decorating was heading?

French Country...........where I spent October...........where I loved the interiors as much as the spectacular vineyards.

La Madone............beautiful place in Provence.

Remember the intriguing blackboard at the entry to La Madone, the gracious house where our Apartment Chanvre was located on the top floor? Our 8:00AM breakfast wishes were entered by Nathalie before we climbed the stone staircase....

.................and, when I saw the old plaster walls with paint colors matte and muted to ancient softness, the Provencal boutis (quilts), antique linen sheets, stacked in the painted armoire and on the elegant chair...................

................the pretty antique high chair.................

......the thick and thirsty towels and wash mitts......

..................I knew my dreams had come true. I was here, in a place so lovely I wanted time to slow down, perhaps even come to a complete standstill so I would not have to leave......ever!

Entering the apartment, the late afternoon light created shadows through the shuttered windows. The crystals danced, the texture of the linen curtains glowed. We threw the windows open and enjoyed the view across the little river and terracotta tiled roofs of ancient Apt, misty mountains in the background.

Empty silvered frame, perfect grey wall - Nathalie and Jean-Bernard know how to do it. I'll learn perhaps. Meanwhile get ready for more..................sometimes all one really needs is much less!

Pink Saturday

A girl should be two things, classy and fabulous.............Coco Chanel

Because this granddaughter often spends time with me I have taken hundreds of photos of her since she was a baby. Here, in a downtown restaurant located in the old newspaper offices, I loved the background colors of the pink peeling plaster walls and woodwork, her pale pink French jersey, the curls escaping from her pulled back hair. Definitely 'pretty in pink'.

Visit Beverly, our great Pink Saturday hostess, at How Sweet the Sound for the list of friends displaying everything pink today. I've missed a lot of Pink Saturdays while away in France - glad to be back - and of course will have some French Pink to show in the weeks to come!

Lourmarin, Provence.......and Linda

Lourmarin is not a perched, hill-top Provencal village, but it is known as one of the loveliest Luberon villages. Driving in on a sunny morning one immediately notices the renaissance chateau Villa Medicis de Provence now used for concerts and exhibitions. Friday is market day, people arrive early to grab a parking place. It was here in Lourmarin I had arranged to meet up with Linda whom many of you know from her beautiful blog, Frenchless In France.

The streets meander past fountains and village houses, circling around an impressive belfry tower at the highest point. This belfry is built on the vestiges of the medieval moated castle that once defined Lourmarin. This village has been an important staging route on the Marseille-Apt route since the IIth century.

Lourmarin bustles with at least 15 restaurants and cafes to choose from. Linda pointed out one where Peter Mayle (author of A Year in Provence and many other popular books about living in this lovely area) often hangs out - apparently we'd missed him that morning.

Until noon the cafes were quiet as locals and tourists bustled through the huge market, making their purchases.

This smiling Frenchman was a delight to do business with - I brought home one of the gorgeous lavender wands made by his family.

Soon the cafes filled up with hungry shoppers and the wonderful daily French lunch began - two hours of relaxation, great food, friendly chat and local gossip.

Before we relaxed at an outdoor table in the sun for some of that good food and local wine, Linda guided dh and I through the market stalls which seemed to take over most of the village. After viewing all the wonderful items offered, she led us up through the winding cobbled streets where we caught glimpses of picturesque houses and tiny shops tucked into the ancient stone walls.

Linda and Mary

Linda it was such fun meeting you - many thanks for sharing the delightful village of Lourmarin with me. I now know why it's your favorite weekly market. Hope I get to go back some day.

A Most Beautiful Place in Provence

You may have left your heart in San Francisco.....................mine is still across the pond on the top floor of this beautiful house.

A dear blog friend was so right about "La Madone" in the town of Apt at the base of the Luberon Mountains. I'm glad I followed her suggestion and stayed in one of the apartments. This is the loveliest place to stay in Provence and I'll be sharing many of the images captured with the permission of the charming owners, Nathalie and Jean-Bernard.

On arrival at La Madone, Nathalie writes in your choice of breakfast time and hot drinks on a large blackboard in the entry way.

Following a tour of the garden and pool area..................

......and formal French introductions to the resident pets......

(this pic is a keeper as my dh is not a 'doggie person' but he did pat this old fella) ...........

...........we pulled up some chairs and enjoyed a glass of Provencal wine..........


......accompanied by fresh figs picked from the trees.....

"I still prefer milk" purr..........

The garden at La Madone is truly a secret garden full of beautiful vintage French furnishings, statuary, birdcages and exotic plants........an oasis tucked away in a small French town.

Coming soon, La Madone's interiors.

Help, Halloween's Here!

Last year, as in most years, I decorated the house for Halloween. This year, a fresh pumpkin sits on the front steps and nothing else!! No time to crawl through the attic and drag out decorations this year. Stacks of household chores to do to get life back to some semblance of order after being away so long.

Above - Front porch 2007

The outdoor French markets were displaying many wonderful Autumn foods. The chestnuts are popular as French cooks use them in both savory and sweet dishes, chopped and creamed. At a village Pumpkin Fete we enjoyed music from the local band. Children rode ponies, giant pumpkins were judged for weight, and the local people met friends for coffee and French versions of 'fair foods' such as we see here at State Fairs at this time of year. Well, no huge turkey legs being hefted - rather delicacies such as fougasse and roasted chestnuts. The warm air was full of festivity and I was certain the wine would start flowing as the day progressed

French squash and pumpkins are quite different from the bright orange, smooth skinned ones we are used to here. Very beautiful to look at............and to eat.

Oops, must run, still have to buy candy for the Trick or Treaters tomorrow evening - that part of Halloween cannot be missed no matter how busy we are. Perhaps I'll even make time to whip up some pumpkin bread too!

Going Home ~ Coming Home

Back in the USA! Arrived Sunday after an almost nine hour flight. Not the best way to be celebrating an auspicious Birthday - yes, it was a big one and I didn't even get a slice of cake - just a granola bar!

Where to start? At the beginning perhaps. Was limited for computer time while in France and England, WIFI not readily available like here. Hope you enjoyed at least a couple of glimpses from life on the roads of Europe and, as promised, I'll bring you more over the coming weeks. I did take a lot of pics of some beautiful scenery, decor, food, markets, my family, and some very special blog friends whom many of you know.

Typical English countryside at daybreak before landing at Heathrow.

After a coach ride from Heathrow to Gatwick Airport, a snack to keep us going while awaiting our flight to Toulouse. No time in England but did get a quick visit on the return.

Leaving the UK and heading across the English Channel to France.


By late afternoon we were in Caunes-Minervois, hugged by family and comfortably ensconced in a "room with a view" of the lovely garden. The window, complete with heavy wood shutters so typical to France, looked out onto the lower level garden and the small "impasse", a pedestrian lane running between the house, some farmland and Caunes Abbey. When here in June 2006, my brother was still renovating this house and we stayed in his former home in a nearby village. The changes here are amazing and I'll be showing you more later.

Thanks to all of you who have kept up with me and left comments and e-mails. Being gone for almost a month and unable to visit you and leave comments has been tough.......but each one of you has been on my mind. I wish you could have all been along to enjoy everything the South of France has to offer.

French Food

When I have more time to extol the virtues of French food I will write several posts dedicated to the amazing array of beautiful foods available everywhere. The French have managed to get it all right when it comes to eating.......................and drinking.

Meanwhile, a quick peek from markets I've visited these past weeks thanks to Corey and Linda while in Provence, my family here in the Minervois, and of course my ever patient dh whom I've dragged to every market day in every village and town along the way.

French breads are the best in the world. Most people buy twice a day with a fresh baguette or other shaped loaf for breakfast and lunch, returning to the boulangerie at 5:30 PM for another fresh baked beauty for dinner later in the evening.

I admit I am a cheese-aholic! No meat of any description, much to a French cook's disappointment, but perhaps I'm pardoned when I gobble their fabulous cheeses.

A healthy salad is always fresh from the potager. Lettuce at the market is never in a plastic bag. Just-picked heads are displayed proudly in boxes, the crispness visible to the senses, and just a simple oil and vinegar dressing required. My brother's is great, and of course the lettuce from his garden the best. Good olive oil, a little walnut oil, balsamic vinegar, a gentle shake in a bottle and the perfect salad arrives on the table.
Because the French rarely eat between meals, sweet treats are saved for dessert. Yes, those gorgeously slim ladies DO eat small portions of scrumptious desserts!

Below is a 'take away' dessert treat Corey shared with us following lunch in Aix-en-Provence. The prettiest, intensely flavored, cream-filled macaroons. I chose coffee flavor, dh pistachio - eaten on the wall of one of Aix's many lovely fountains.

More on food later....................off now to enjoy another of my sister-in-law's gourmet meals. Can honestly say I haven't had a bad French meal yet - every morsel has been perfection. Did I hear someone mention "diet"? Oh yes, that word looms in my future, however you need to know that we have walked, and walked, including a 5 mile hike through the vineyards this week!!