"Queen of the English Riviera"

Torquay in the county of Devon in Southwest England. This is my birthplace, my hometown......................the place people have asked how could I have left. Some people never leave home, some move across town, perhaps travel to a bigger city, others fly to another coast. I crossed a great ocean expecting to explore for a while and then return to this lovely place...........life throws curves, life changes. Perhaps one never can go home.

Torquay is built on seven hills making the view from Tor Bay especially scenic. The beaches are many and varied, sand, pebbles, rocky. In the pic below, the area by the steps lower left, was my childhood favorite and we headed there after school on early Summer evenings for a swim. The town is known for the flower filled public gardens along the seafront and wooden pier where Agatha Christie would roller skate. She is one of the town's famous people having grown up there. I am not famous by any means!

Across Tor Bay are the towns of Paignton and Brixham and beyond the bay the English Channel.

Like most English seaside towns, Torquay is a now a little worn around the edges and the tourist trade has suffered. People head to the Continent where the beaches of Spain are especially popular with guaranteed sunshine all Summer long.

The natural beauty of Devon is hard to beat though, and beyond the beaches is rolling countryside and moorland so very beautiful.............nothing beats a real 'cream tea' in a cottage garden on Dartmoor!

Cousins................together

Do you have a special cousin? Luckily I do and her name is Sue. In this fabulous photo (circa 1915) is our Grandmother with her children. Sue's Mother is second from the left and the eldest, mine is on the right. The boy on the left is my Mother's twin, and the two girls in Grandmother's arms are their twin sisters.

Our Mothers were close, went away to boarding school together, learned dressmaking and worked together before they married. Sue was born nine months before me and this photo was taken in 1944 when our Mums walked us along the seafront in my home town, Torquay. Sue is obviously practicing toddling while I'm chubby and crying because I'm stuck in the pram - or perhaps just embarrassed by Mum's pillbox hat! Fast forward to two weeks ago......................now in our sixties (where did all those years go?) kissin' cousins became lickin' cousins. We giggled over this English version of Dairy Queen with a Cadbury's chocolate flake candy bar stuck in. Amazing what grown women will do at the seaside...............especially cousins.

We then stopped by the house in the center of Teignmouth where Sue grew up.......this was the door we passed through constantly when we were children. My Uncle's real estate business was located on the ground floor, and my dear Auntie's dressmaking workroom was upstairs - I loved watching her sew beautiful clothes. Both Sue and I became handy with a needle and thread thanks to our Mothers' sewing skills, and their patience instructing us in needle arts.

We had so much fun in this house during Summer holidays - the back looked out to a row of posh hotels where we watched the Italian waiters and the dish washers in the kitchens from our bedroom window! The beach and amusement pier were around the corner.
Sue has lived here all her adult life......the prettiest cottage which was once the carriage house to a large estate home.

The entrance gates open into a beautiful courtyard and an upper garden by the red stone wall and.................................................. ....................you can see how Sue and her DH Johan (the most delightful Dutch man) have made it such a beautiful place to relax.

Cousins.......coffee........a sunny October day in Devon..........perfect! Sue, I hope you read this and know how much I love you. I am so grateful to have had you all these years as my very special cousin.

Visiting a Childhood Place

A little history about Teignmouth, the Devon seaside town just 15 minutes from my hometown. The coast ride along the cliffs, overlooking the English Channel, was always exciting to a young girl put on a bus and sent to spend a few wonderful weeks each Summer with her only girl cousin, Sue. I had such fun there and enjoyed reliving the memories with her during this recent visit.

In the local guide, the simplicity of the natural beauty of the area is stated thus.........Who could fail to appreciate this place where so many contrasting aspects combine to please the eye.....warm rosy sandstone cliffs and verdant meadows.....gentle promenade and towering Ness (French 'nez').....river and sea in glorious union never still, ever lively.

Below is an aerial view of Teignmouth, the River Teign Estuary, and the tiny town of Shaldon across the river. The original pier was much longer, built in the 1860's. In its heyday of Victorian and Edwardian times, there were band concerts, magic lantern shows, steamer trips and dances. Unfortunately the seaward end including the ballroom was removed in the 1960's when it was found to be unsafe. Sue and I spent a lot of time on this pier as children/teenagers.

A small ferry has crossed the Teign ever since the 13th Century. The black and white design on the gunwales is a continuing tradition stretching back to Elizabeth I who bestowed royal patronage on West Teignmouth. The design emulates the galleons of that time.

We stayed here at the Bay Hotel in a seaview room for three nights to be close to where my cousin and her family live. This terrace of Victorian homes was constructed by the Earl of Devon in the 1860's. During World War II, three of the houses were bombed but the rebuilding matches the original style perfectly, thank goodness..

The rooms were beautiful, especially the ceilings, mirrors, and elegant lighting. At the hotel, American husband went all out and ordered 'the full English' each morning for breakfast - I told him that eating like that would never get him a role in 'The Full Monty' that's for sure!!

Next time I'll show you more about my cousin's seaside town..............and the wild things 'kissin' cousins' can get up to!

High Street Shopping

Look up, look up..........................the old buildings are beautiful against the blue sky, facades fit for the Queen.Down below at street level, the tiny shops are crammed to the doors........even out the doors on this fine day. If looking for everyday china and kitchenware, this minuscule shop had it all. Shelves and tables so crowded they almost groaned from the weight of the china. DH waited patiently on the pavement ~ I held my breathe as I moved gingerly through a narrow aisle, not wanting to be 'a bull in a china shop'.Perhaps 'a little tea pot short and stout' in the traditional English style is needed for your cottage. The Brits usually sip a wake up drink of tea rather than coffee. These basic, chunky china tea pots sit waiting a few scoops of loose 'English Breakfast' or a couple of tea bags. Don't forget, you need a tea cozy too!
Afternoon tea, served at 4 o'clock, requires a more elegant tea pot and delicate cups and saucers - these blue and white ones are pretty. Note the French inspired tin salt keeper, canisters and jugs - "copycats". I think they should still have the words in French!

No fancy Royal Doulton and Wedgewood bone china dinner services here ~ just solid cream and white everyday wares for the cottage or converted barn.

Super gravy boats............... and coffee mugs by the hundreds..................bring on my strong black cafe Americano, or a steaming creamy latte if that's your morning wake up drink of choice.
Across from the china shop was another quaint little place, a miniature hardware store, named Hooks & Handles. Loved the sweeping brooms standing at attention by the door, with true natural stiff bristles - need a new one for my deck but couldn't fathom how to fit it in my suitcase, sigh!
These charming shops are situated in a tiny area named 'The Triangle' in the seaside town of Teignmouth on the South Devon coast. It was here I spent my childhood Summer holidays with my cousin Sue...................more on that later.

Story of a Seaside Village

All across the mostly rural West Country of England, villages and hamlets are tucked into the folds of the rolling hills, moorland, and valleys. The attractive homes range from slate roofed houses to converted barns to ancient thatched cottages. The old thatched cottage with roses around the door has always conjured up the true heart of English country living.


Below is the village of Branscombe, Devon where the hills swoop down to the sea. In January of this year you may have heard about the beaching and break up of the huge container ship Napoli off the pebbled beach. 25 containers washed ashore and huge crowds of scavengers descended on the beach to carry off everything from BMW motorcycles to disposable diapers! The tiny picturesque village was then closed to streams of traffic trying to maneuver through the narrow lanes by potential beachcombers and media hoards. Half of the ship remains off the beach and it's hoped it will be removed soon. The beach is still being cleaned up and looked quite good when we visited. Luckily the seabirds did not suffer too much from the oil spilled.Remaining half of the Napoli off Branscombe beach on an October afternoon.Carrying the groceries home across the cliffs of Branscombe - Brits are great walkers. Note how the always green fields of England run all the way down to the cliff edge by the sea.Time for a cuppa! The little thatched tea room right on the beach - with such a delightful painted sign - the owners live here year round. Leaving the village, cottages line the lane. I came across this wonderful garden in a little valley. Tended with loving care - and a lot of hard work I'm sure - cooing white doves on several dovecotes, a Summerhouse, and a bridge crossing the brook.

The 12th century Norman church within view of the clothes line - wouldn't you just love pegging out the washing to dry with a view like this?
Hope you enjoyed a visit to this village~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~more to come later on other West Country places of great interest.

Haunted House

We waited patiently, toasting the moon, the stars, the mild and pleasant evening. I decorated the gazebo with large paper stars, a scary pumpkin and a gazing ball - signs pointed the way. Come in my dearies - candy bars are waiting - but the little goblins and purple witches were few this year.The front porch was waiting - very few little tippy toeing ballerinas or pirates stopped by.
Soon it was dark, the evening drew in, little fairies and tiny Tiggers were already home tucked into their beds, pails of sweeties at their sides.
The lights burned on for a while then dimmed - too much candy leftover, too tempting to leave in a bowl..................I'm off to find a hiding place for it.
Hope your Halloween was fun!

Witchy Woman Cast a Spell on Me

Oh my, look what jet lag does - turns a usually tame redhead into an old witch in her black boots. But witches don't have toes and I do - phew! I was beginning to get a bit worried.

Running around today trying to gussy up the cottage in time for the trick or treat brigade expected tomorrow evening. The weather is warm during the day but the cool nights should soon have those trees dressed in gold and brown. I must plant tulip and daffodil bulbs and cover with pansies before leaves carpet the garden.

The porch is ready except for the bowl of candy - mostly Bob's favorites in case there's leftovers. Have a ghoulish time......................and dress up in something, anything, just for an evening of fun. We hang out in our cul-de-sac with the neighbors, toasting the moon and scaring the kiddies. The way I'm feeling I may very well resemble that witch....now I must go find my pointy hat.

More English country and coastal chronicles coming soon.